Thursday, 26 July 2012

Hell, part II: The American Embassy


After a seemingly endless array of forms and  paperwork, it was time for my all-important visa interview. The American Embassy is a large and terrifying building in Grosvenor square, which I arrived outside at 10am one sunny Thursday morning; finding myself somewhat taken aback by the large number of armed police patrolling its perimeter. I nodded to one of them as I joined the queue outside, and he adjusted his hold on the gun in his hands, at which point I resolved that eyes-on-the-ground was the best policy. In groups of twenty, visa applicants were ushered through a glass box and a metal detector, while a red-faced man bellowed “TAKE OFF YOUR BELTS! TAKE OFF YOUR BELTS! NOT YOU-” he thrust a finger in my face “YOUR BELT IS TOO THIN TO TAKE OFF! JUST GET THROUGH, FAST AS YOU CAN!” 

In my confusion, I went striding off in the wrong direction, and had to be caught and turned around before managing to locate the entrance. 

We were herded into the main foyer of the building and up to a room where five hundred chairs stood in rows, filled with people while an automated voice called people’s ticket numbers to the glass-plated windows for confirmation and interview. The ban on electronic equipment in the building resulted in an atmosphere of futile despair; the pervading sense of helplessness people feel in this day and age when they suddenly find themselves without their mobile phone, iPod, iPad, Nintendo DS, walkie talkie, etc. I had a book, so I felt smug- for the first two hours. When my number was eventually called I shook out my dead leg, got up to go to the glass-plate window and descended into a fit of panic. Did I have all the right bits of paper? Yes I’d triple-checked before leaving the house, but with my capacity to misplace things there was never a guarantee. The impassive woman on the other side of the glass- the safe side of the glass- scanned my paperwork and talked me through the basics, before asking: 

            “And have you read your Workplace Rights?” 

            “No.” 

            “No?” 

She stared at me through the glass. Oh God. In an instant I realised that, although it hadn’t been included in any of the paperwork or online briefing, this was apparently the most crucial aspect of being allowed legal entry into the United States. I hadn’t done it. It was all over. I would have to go home and spend the next year eating pringles in bed.       

            “I mean, I can read them. I will read them. I promise, as soon as I can get to a working computer-”

I was babbling. At some point in the past two minutes my brain had caved in on itself. She was pushing a pamphlet at me under the glass panel. 

            “Just read them before your interview.” 

Right. Hang on, what? Before the interview? This wasn’t the interview? 

            “Now go back to your seat and wait for your number to be called a second time round.” 

A second time round. My number was 548. As I returned to my chair, the automated voice summoned number 135, and I realised I was beginning to lose my grip on sanity. 

I read too fast. I always have done, and my book had been consumed, cover to cover. I had no clock, no means of measuring the time as the minutes crawled by and the automated voice rapped out number after number. The only indication I now possess of the delirium that crept up on me over the next three hours are the scribbles in my notebook- observational (raving) passages I wrote down about the people around me. Here is one of these ravings: 

Directly next to me: young man in his mid-twenties. Brown hair, short back and sides, light blue picnic-blanket shirt. Thick leather belt, cream trousers and brown suede shoes that look expensive but are quite possibly knockdown. Thick black and red striped socks, which disturbs the inner-city private school banker look. Very small hands for a man, with fingernails chewed down to stubs. Looks sort of… clean and asexual, like his mother still scrubs him behind the ears every morning. Was probably kicked around a bit at school for being too clever. Seems impossibly cheery and good-natured in a room full of angry people.  

Of course I then had to speak to this unfortunate bystander, who had no idea why I’d been staring fixedly at him for fifteen minutes while writing in a pad. I discovered he was going to study Law at Yale. It seemed as though I’d almost achieved a coherent conversation, something to alleviate my tedium-fuelled insanity, until I said “Imagine having a cardiac arrest as you left the building and dying, and this being how you had spent the last four hours of your life.” 

The boy suddenly became engrossed in his book, and didn’t speak to me again after that. The embassy had not only stolen hours of my precious life, it had also robbed me of any social skills, possibly forever. California had better be worth it. 

At 3pm I was finally called for interview. I understood now why the officials worked behind plates of glass. Protection. They were probably bulletproof. 

            “And you’re going to…” The young man stared uncertainly at me- pale, crazy-eyed, slightly murderous-looking on the other side of the glass- “Berkeley?” 

Had I seen myself at that moment, I’d have been doubtful about them letting me in as well. But after a second he asked me to scan my fingerprints, explained that my forms would be returned within seven working days, and told me I was free to go. 

The process itself took a total of eight minutes. 

The waiting was five hours. 

Still, I was there. I possessed a J-1 visa, a sense of burning rage, and the desire to inhale a huge quantity of junk food.  

I fly in three weeks.

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