The Laconic Australian, it turns out, is
far less composed when you strap two elongated pieces of plastic to his feet and
send him screaming down a mountainside. Me-time mark three was a stunning day
of skiing in Lake Tahoe, at the Kirkwood Mountain Resort. There’s a superb ski
shuttle company called the Bay Area Ski Bus that, for a mere $163, picks you up
from Oakland or San Francisco, runs you down to Tahoe, includes lift ticket,
ski hire, a day on the slopes, and then drops you home again with films and
snacks to boot.
The Kirkwood Mountain, from the parking lot. |
We got onto the bus from the Rockridge BART
at half five in the morning. I was out cold instantly, on the shoulder of the
bemused man next to me, and by the time I resurfaced we were in Tahoe. After
the bus paused to put chains on the wheels we were heading up a mountain road-
it had been snowing for two days previously and the trees were weighed down
with a thick layer of frosting. Whenever you see ads for skiing or winter
sports, it’s very easy to suspect the pictures are touched up, but out there on
the mountain the sky really is that bright,
china blue. Friends and family back in the U.K are sick of the sight of snow
after a very bitter winter, but stateside the novelty had nowhere near worn off.
Far side of the mountain! |
The bus arrived at the resort at 9:30, and
by 10am the Laconic Australian and I were making the first run of the day. A
very fine, almost crystalline snow was still falling, and it was early enough
that the runs were still very smooth. The terrain at Kirkwood is chiefly
intermediate, with lots of blue runs full of unexpected inclines, and trees in
every direction. It shortly transpired that the Laconic Australian’s favourite
pastime was to vanish unexpectedly among thickets of pine. I’d never tried
skiing among trees before, and for the first couple of runs followed
enthusiastically in his wake, before eventually accepting that the narrow
routes always left me face-down in a snowbank.
The ski lifts run over to the far side of
the mountain, which takes roughly half an hour, not including runs, and in the
course of the morning the Laconic Australian and I skied as far as the resort’s
border. A favourite route was the ‘Happiness’ trail, which had a perfect
combination of wide runs and narrower twisted terrain; steep enough to get a
decent speed without the imminent consequence of a broken neck. ‘Juniper’ and ‘Whisky
Side’ saw us safely back to the base camp in the afternoon, and we spent the
last couple of hours on the wider terrain that fed directly back to the
mountain village. All in all we spent about six hours on the slopes, and looking
at the terrain map I feel as though we barely scratched the surface.
Incredible value for money, a fantastic
resort and a brilliant day. If time and money allow, I’ll definitely be going
back.
Laconic Australian, on a base camp run |
The Ski Bus website is currently being surly and refusing to let me link it, but will hopefully get a functioning link up tomorrow morning.
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